izingubo ezijwayelekile eGuatemala Zingaphezu nje kwezingubo ezinhle noma ezinemibala: ziyindlela yokulandisa izindaba, yokubonisa imvelaphi yomuntu ngamunye, kanye nokugcina amasiko ephila adluliselwa ezizukulwaneni ngezizukulwane. Kuleli zwe, izingubo zendabuko zigqokwa kokubili empilweni yansuku zonke nasemicimbini yemikhosi, futhi kuzo zombili izimo zinenani elikhulu lophawu kanye namasiko.
Emadolobheni amaningi, amadoda, abesifazane, nezingane bayaqhubeka nokugqoka izingubo zendabuko ezichaza umphakathi wabo, ulimi lwabo, ngisho nesimo sabo somshado. Ingubo ngayinye inezici ezihlukile—kusukela ohlotsheni lwendwangu kuya ekuthungeni kanye nezesekeli—ezivumela umuntu ukuthi aqaphele umnyango noma umasipala ovela kuwo.
Ukuhlukahluka kwezingubo zendabuko eGuatemala
IGuatemala ichazwa ngokuthi ukwehlukahlukana kwamasiko okungavamileFuthi lokhu kubonakala ngokucacile ezingutsheni zabo zesifunda. Umnyango ngamunye uthuthukise isitayela sawo sokugqoka sendabuko, esithonywe isiko lamaMaya, imikhosi yenkolo, isimo sezulu, kanye nomlando wendawo.
Emiphakathini eminingi kukhona izinhlobo ezimbili zesudiKukhona isudi yansuku zonke, elula futhi ekhululekile emsebenzini, kanye nesudi yemikhosi, evame ukuba yinkimbinkimbi, enezindwangu ezinhle kakhulu, imifekethiso eyinkimbinkimbi, kanye nezesekeli ezengeziwe. Le ngubo yemikhosi igcinelwe imishado, imikhosi yenkolo, ubuzalwane, kanye neminye imicimbi ekhethekile.
Imibala, izimpawu ezithungiwe, kanye nendlela ingubo ngayinye egqokwa ngayo akuyona into eyenzeka ngengozi. Iningi lezingubo zendabuko lihlanganisa izinhloso ezihlobene nemveloImifanekiso yezilwane, izimbali, izakhi zejiyometri, noma izinkomba zezinkolelo zokhokho zivamile. Ngaphezu kwalokho, imiphakathi eminingi igcina izesekeli ezithile ezibonisa, isibonelo, ukuthi owesifazane ushadile, unesikhundla senkolo, noma uhlanganyela ebuzalwaneni benkolo.
En I-Alta VerapazAbesifazane bagqoka i- i-huipil emhlophe ehlanganiswe nezingcezu eziningana ezingokomfanekiso. Phakathi kwazo, i-tupuy iyagqama, kanye namacici, izindandatho, kanye ne-napkin ebekwe njengengxenye yengubo. Le napkin inencazelo eqinile ngokomoya, njengoba ifanekisela inhlonipho awu, umuntu ohlobene nonkulunkulu kanye nombono wezwe wamaMaya.
Isudi yamadoda egqoke Baja Verapaz Iqukethe amahembe namabhulukwe ane- ama-motif amancane athungiwe Ama-sashes ahlelwe ngemigqa, enezela ukuthungwa kanye nemininingwane engutsheni. Ahlotshiswe ngemiklamo egobile futhi ngokuvamile anemibala eminingi. Amajakethi abomvu, enziwe ngokotini ngokwesiko, aqedela inhlanganisela. Kwabesifazane, i-huipil yansuku zonke yenziwa ngendwangu eyodwa futhi inentamo elula eyindilinga.
Ngemikhosi yenkolo, abesifazane balo mnyango bagqoka i- i-huipil ekhethekile eyenziwe ngamaphaneli amathathuLe huipil yemikhosi ingagqokwa phezu kwesigqoko sekhanda lapho uya esontweni, ngaleyo ndlela iphawula umehluko phakathi kwezingubo zansuku zonke nezingubo zezinsuku ezibalulekile.
Ngokwabo, abesifazane base- I-Chimaltenango Babonakala kalula nge ama-huipile anemibala egqamileLezi zingubo zivame ukuba nentamo engu-V noma intamo eyisikwele. Isiketi, esinombala omningi, sigoqa okhalweni, sifinyelele esitebhisini. Yingubo ende, indwangu engamamitha amaningana, eboshwe ngebhande elibomvu, okwenza umehluko omkhulu.
Ezikhathini zasendulo, amadoda aseChiquimula ayesebenzisa ibhulukwe langaphansi elimhlophe kanye nehembe elingaphambili lebhediIzingubo zazihlotshiswe ngemibala emine eyisisekelo: obomvu, oluhlaza okotshani, ophuzi, noluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka. Lokhu kuhlanganiswa kwemibala kwenze iqembu laba nokubukeka okumangalisayo. Ngokuqondene nabesifazane, izingubo zabo zaziphawuleka ngezingubo zazo ezikhangayo, ezibuswa yi-jaspi ngemibala eluhlaza okotshani nokubomvu, ziqediwe ngeribhoni elimhlophe neliphuzi ngaphambili elaligqamisa ingaphambili lengubo.
Emnyangweni we- Intuthukonoma imvunulo yabesifazane ijikeleza ku- ibhulawuzi elinokuhlobisa ngezimbali Kuheha kakhulu amehlo. Imibala egqamile yezimbali ihlanganiswe nesiketi esinezitezi eziningi, esihlotshiswe nangomfekethiso othambile. Ngaphezu kwalokho, owesifazane uvame ukugqoka ibhande elibanzi elimboza okhalweni kanye neshawl, elisetshenziselwa kokubili ukumboza ikhanda nokuvikela amahlombe elangeni noma emakhazeni.
En I-EscuintlaIzinduna zezinhlangano zamaqembu zihlukaniswa ngokusebenzisa kwazo ama-huipile akhethekile nama-tzuteLokhu kuhlanganiswe nesiketi nebhande lansuku zonke, okudala ingubo ehlelekile. Isigqoko sekhanda naso siyinto ebalulekile: iribhoni ende yoboya ihlanganiswa nezinwele futhi igoqwe izikhathi eziningana ekhanda, okwenza isitayela sezinwele esiyinkimbinkimbi kakhulu esinencazelo enamandla engokomfanekiso ngaphakathi komongo wenkolo.
Ku umnyango waseGuatemalaAbesifazane bavame ukugqoka i- isithasiselo sezinwele sokuhlobisaIgqokwa ne-huipil, ibhulawuzi elukiwe ngesandla elihlotshiswe ngomfekethiso. Isiketi ngokuvamile sakhiwe ngemibala emibili noma emithathu ehlangana ndawonye, ​​kuyilapho kubekwa i-sash okhalweni ukuze kulungiswe ukulingana. I-perraje, noma i-shawl, isibe yingubo enemisebenzi eminingi, ewusizo ekufudumaleni, ekuthwaleni izinto, noma ngisho nasekuthwaleni izingane.
Izingubo zabesifazane e- IHuehuetenango ivelele i-its i-huipil eyenziwe ngengubo emhlopheIkhola ihlotshiswe ngephethini eliyindilinga. Izintambo ezinemibala egqamile zihlelwe ngezimo zejometri—ikakhulukazi ama-rhombuses—kanye nemidwebo yezimbali. Lokhu kuhlanganiswa kwezimo nemibala egqamile kuhlanganisa ubuso futhi kunikeza ingubo ukubukeka okuhlukile kakhulu.
En Izabari Amasiko ahlukene ahlala lapho, kuhlanganise namaGarifuna. Abantu baseGarifuna base-Izabal Babonakala ngezingubo zabo ezihlukile, okuthi, uma kukhulunywa ngabesifazane, zibe nezingubo zemiklamo ehlukahlukene kanye nesikhafu sekhanda. Lezi zingubo zivame ukuba nezindwangu ezinemibala egqamile kanye namaphethini amahle, okubonisa ifa lase-Afrika naseCaribbean lalo mphakathi.
En UJalapaEsinye sezici ezimele kakhulu zengubo yi- i-tecoyalIbhulawuzi, isesekeli esibonisa umshado wowesifazane, lenziwa ngezindwangu ezinemibala futhi lihlotshiswe ngentambo emikhonweni nasekholeni. Isiketi, esaziwa ngokuthi i-petticoat, ngokuvamile senziwe ngendwangu enamabala, okwenza kube nomphumela obonakalayo ohlukile. Abesifazane abaningi baphinde baqedele ingubo ngejazi, elingasebenza njengezingubo zangaphandle noma njengophawu lwenhlonipho ezindaweni ezithile.
Imvunulo yesifunda Jutiapa Kuhlukile kwabanye ngoba Ayinazimpande ezibonakalayo zamaMaya Umklamo wayo uqukethe ngokuyinhloko ingubo emhlophe egelezayo ehlotshiswe ngamaribhoni anemibala enezela ukunyakaza nokudlidliza engutsheni. Lo mehluko phakathi kwesizinda esimhlophe namaribhoni anemibala eminingi unikeza umnyango isitayela sawo esiyingqayizivele.
Imvunulo yendabuko ka U-Petén ngokuvamile kufaka phakathi ingubo emhlophe njengesisekeloI-huipil ihlotshiswe ngemifekethiso ebhekisela ngqo ebuhlotsheni nemvelo kanye nozalo oluhlobene nayo. Kuvamile ukuthola izithombe zezilwane, izitshalo, nezinye izinto zemvelo, eziqokomisa ukuxhumana komphakathi nehlathi lemvula kanye nendawo elizungezile.
Abesifazane be Quetzaltenango Zibonakala ngama-huipile azo, abonisa imibala efana nobomvu, onsomi, nophuziImiklamo ivame ukufaka izinyoni, izinkanyezi, ama-vase, kanye neminye imidwebo engokomfanekiso. Isiketi noma iphinifa lihlanganiswa okhalweni bese libanjwa ngebhande elincane, eliqinisa ingubo futhi liphinde lengeze umbala engutsheni.
En I-QuichéI-huipil yendabuko iyingxenye ye- Ingemuva elimhlophe elinokuhlobisa okunemibala eminingiOkubomvu, okuluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, okuphuzi, okuluhlaza okotshani, neminye imibala kuletha izithombe zezinyoni nezimbali ekuphileni. Indwangu ivame ukuba bomvu, yize ingatholakala futhi ngokuhlanganiswa okuluhlaza okotshani nokumhlophe. Esinye sezici ezihlaba umxhwele kakhulu yi-tocoyal, ucezu olude olulukiwe olugcwele ama-tassels azungezwe ikhanda nezinwele, okwengeza ivolumu nombala.
En I-Retalhuleu kusetshenziswa izindwangu ukotini wemvelo ngethoni eluhlazalapho umbala obomvu ugqama khona, okwenza umehluko omuhle kakhulu. Nakuba lo mnyango ungenayo ingubo yawo yendabuko ehlukile ngokuphelele, kuvamile ukubona izingubo ezivela eSan Sebastián nasezindaweni eziphakeme endaweni, eziye zamukelwa futhi zaguqulwa ukuze zivumelane nesimo sendawo.
Ama-huipiles ka I-Sacatepequez Babonakala kakhulu ngenxa yabo indlela yokulukaUmklamo ubonakala kokubili ngaphambili nangemuva, ubonisa ubunzima bobuciko. Esikhathini esidlule, imidwebo yejometri yayivame kakhulu, kodwa ngokuhamba kwesikhathi lokhu kuye kwathatha indawo yezinhlobo eziningi zezithombe, phakathi kwazo izimbali ezivelele.
Kumasipala we San PedroNgaphakathi komnyango waseSan Marcos, abesifazane bagqoka izingubo eziqukethe ukusika kwesilika kanye ne-huipil, eyenziwe ngesilika ngesisekelo sikakotini. Lezi yizingubo ezilukiwe kakhulu futhi eziyinkimbinkimbi, ezivame ukugcinelwa imicimbi ekhethekile ngenxa yenani lazo kanye nokunambitheka kwazo.
En Santa RosaEnye yezingubo zamadoda ezimele kakhulu yibhulukwe elihlukanisiwe, elenziwe nge i-muslin emhlopheImfushane futhi ibanzi ngemuva, okuyinika igama layo elihlukile. Edolobheni laseLos Esclavos, abesifazane bavame ukugqoka izingubo ze-satin ezinemibala egqamile nekhanyayo, okukhumbuza amaMengala, izakhamuzi zasendulo zalesi sifunda ezazinethonya ekwakhiweni kwamanje kwezingubo.
Imvunulo yabesifazane Solola Idumile kulo lonke izwe ngokuhlanganiswa kwayo kwe- i-huipil ebomvu enemifekethiso ngeminye imibalaIsiketi esiluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka kanye ne-petticoat ebomvu. Abesifazane bavame ukugqoka imigexo eminingi ehlobisa izifuba zabo kanye nesikhafu sekhanda, okungase kuhluke kuye ngesenzakalo. Leli qembu elinemibala nelilinganiselayo lingenye yezindawo eziphakeme zaseGuatemala ezimele kakhulu.
En Suchitepéquez, Abesifazane bagqoka isigqoko sekhanda esilula nsuku zonke futhi izinwele eziboshwe ngeribhoni elincaneIphefumulelwe yizindwangu ze-Totonicapán, le ribhoni inezela umbala futhi isiza ekubambeni isitayela sezinwele endaweni yaso. Emicimbini ehlelekile, kusetshenziswa isitayela esifanayo seribhoni, kodwa ngendlela ecebile, enemiklamo yesilika kanye nama-tassel esilika ekugcineni.
Ingxenye ephakathi yalesi sigqoko semikhosi yenziwe ngendwangu ebomvu yekotoni, ehlanganiswe imichilo yekotoni nesilika ngombala ophuzi noluhlaza okotshani, okudala umklamo oheha amehlo ogcwele incazelo yendabuko esifundeni.
En I-TotonicapánI-huipil yemikhosi ihlukaniswa yi- ukuthunga kwesilikaokwenza kube nokuthungwa okukhethekile nokukhanya. Yingubo evame ukugcinelwa imikhosi nemicimbi ebalulekile. Izintambo ezisetshenziswa kulezi zingubo zaziwa ngokuthi izintambo ezidaywe ngendlela egobile, futhi zona kanye ne-weft kudaywa kusetshenziswa indlela yasendulo ebizwa ngokuthi ikati, noma ifindo, elihlanganisa ukubopha izingxenye zomsonto ndawonye ngaphambi kokuwudaya ukuze kudalwe amaphethini ayinkimbinkimbi.
En ZacapaUkusetshenziswa kwansuku zonke, abesifazane abaningi bagqoka izinwele ezisongwe ngeribhoni elincane kakhuluFuthi liphefumulelwe yizindwangu ze-Totonicapán, leli ribhoni liqoqwa ngemuva kwekhanda, lenze i-bun ehlukile. Emicimbini esemthethweni, kusetshenziswa uhlobo olufanayo lweribhoni, kodwa luhlotshiswe ngezithombe zesilika kanye nama-tassel esilika ekugcineni.
Ingxenye ephakathi yalesi sigqoko sekhanda yenziwe ngendwangu ebomvu yekotoni, ehlanganiswe imichilo yekotoni nesilika ngombala ophuzi noluhlaza okotshani. Lo mklamo, ofana kakhulu nokaSuchitepéquez, ukhombisa ukuthi kanjani amasiko athile ezindwangu ayabiwa phakathi kweminyango ehlukene, kugcinwa ubunjalo obufanayo kodwa obuhambisana nendawo ngayinye.
Lo mdwebo wezingubo zendabuko wenza iGuatemala ibe yizwe elizaziyo futhi liziveze ngezingubo zalo. Ama-huipile amhlophe avela kuPetén anemidwebo yezilwane Kusukela ezingutsheni zesatin ezicwebezelayo eSanta Rosa, kuya ezigqokweni zekhanda ezineribhoni ezinde zesilika eSuchitepéquez naseZacapa, ingubo ngayinye inikela ngengxenye ethile empikiswaneni enkulu yamasiko yezwe, okwenza izingubo zibe ikhadi lobizo langempela emhlabeni.