La izingubo zendabuko zesiFulentshi Kungaphezu kakhulu kwendaba yendabuko: kuyisibuko somlando, izinkolelo, kanye nokuphila kwansuku zonke kwabantu abahlala kuyo. Ngezingubo zabo zesifunda, umuntu angalandelela umehluko ngesigaba sezenhlalo, inkolo, imvelaphi, ngisho nesimo somshado, konke kuthungwe futhi kuthungwe ezindwangu esizihlanganisa nemikhosi nemikhosi namuhla, kodwa ezaziyingxenye yokuphila kwansuku zonke.
Kulesi sihloko sizobheka ngokuthula Izingubo zesifunda ezintathu zaseFrance Sizohlola izifunda ezimele kakhulu zase-Alsace, e-Arles, naseBrittany, futhi sigxile endleleni izingubo ezihlobana ngayo nefa lamasiko, ubucwebe bendabuko, kanye nophawu oluye lwalahleka emakhulwini eminyaka. Sizobona nokuthi iFrance ibe kanjani umholi womhlaba wonke kwezemfashini nezobuciko bezithombe, nokuthi ezinye izikhungo ziqhubeka kanjani nokulondoloza leli fa.
Izingubo zesiFulentshi zendabuko kanye nokuguquka kwazo komlando

Uma sikhuluma ngakho izingubo zendabuko zesiFulentshiAsikhulumi ngemvunulo eyodwa yesizwe, kodwa kunalokho i-mosaic yezingubo ezihlukahluka kuye ngesifunda, isikhathi, indawo yomphakathi, kanye namasiko endawo. Lokhu kuhlukahluka kwenza kube nzima ukukhuluma ngendinganiso, kodwa yilapho kanye ukuceba kwayo kulele khona: imvunulo ngayinye ilandisa indaba ehlukile.
La Izingubo zaseFrance Imfashini yaqala ukudlala indima ehamba phambili kusukela ngekhulu le-18 kuqhubeke, futhi ikakhulukazi ngekhulu le-19, ihambisana neNguquko YaseFrance. Lesi sikhathi saphawula ushintsho olukhulu ezingutsheni, njengoba imfashini yayisetshenziswa njengethuluzi lezepolitiki nezenhlalo: izici ezithile ezihlobene nezikhulu zashiywa, futhi izitayela eziseduze nabantu abavamile zahlanganiswa, ngaphandle kokunganaki izici zesifunda.
Ekhulwini lama-20, eziningi zalezi izingubo zendabuko zaseFrance Zayeka ukusetshenziswa ekuphileni kwansuku zonke futhi zagcinelwa imicimbi ekhethekile: imikhosi yabangcwele abasekeli, imidlalo yaseshashalazini, imidanso yabantu, imibuthano, noma ukulingisa umlando. Ngale ndlela, ingubo iba ngcwele, ishiya inqubo yansuku zonke futhi iguquke ibe uphawu lobunikazi obugqokwa ngezikhathi ezibalulekile.
Izindawo zokugcina izingubo zesifunda, ezimweni eziningi, izimpawu ezibonakalayo zesimo senhlalo nesomndeni Isitayela somgqoki sikhuliswa yizihlobiso ezihlotshisiwe noma ezihlotshisiwe, ukuceba kwezindwangu, ubuningi nekhwalithi yobucwebe, ngisho nemininingwane yombala ekhombisa ukuthi umuntu akashadile, ushadile, noma ungumfelokazi. Zonke lezi zici zibonakala ngokucacile ezingutsheni ezintathu esizozibona ngezansi.
Imvunulo yendabuko yase-Alsatia: ubuwena ekuqaleni

Esifundeni se I-Alsace, lapho iStrasbourg iyindawo yokubhekisela kuyoIngubo yendabuko isicishe ibe uphawu olubonakalayo, ikakhulukazi enguqulweni yayo yabesifazane. Nakuba namuhla ihlotshaniswa kakhulu nemikhosi nemicimbi yabantu, yayike yaba yindlela yokugqoka egcwele incazelo, evumela umuntu ukuthi athole ulwazi oluningi ngowesifazane ngokumbheka nje.
El Imvunulo yabesifazane base-Alsatian Yayibonakala ngamandla amakhulu okuxhumana. Ngemibala yayo, izimo, kanye nezesekeli, kwakungenzeka ukuhlonza idolobhana lowesifazane azalelwa kulo, isimo sakhe somshado (ongashadile, oshadile, ongumfelokazi), ngisho nobulungu bakhe benkolo. Lokhu kuchazwa okusheshayo kwengubo kwenza ingubo, empeleni, yaba uhlobo lwekhadi lokuzazisa lendwangu.
Isigqoko sasihlaba umxhwele kakhulu, futhi e-Alsace sasingaba sikhulu futhi sihlotshiswe kahle. Nakuba imininingwane ethile yayihlukahluka kuye ngedolobha, iqembu laqedwa ngo- iziketi ezibanzi, ama-aproni nama-bodice eyayihlobisa lesi sibalo, ihlonipha njalo ubuhle obubonakalayo obugxile kakhulu phakathi kwezakhamuzi zesifunda.
Ezimweni ze Umculo nomdanso wendabuko waseFranceNgisho nanamuhla, lezi zingubo zase-Alsatian zingabonakala zigqokwa ngokuziqhenya. Izinhlangano zamasiko namaqembu omdanso agcina leli siko liphila, eliye laba uphawu lobunikazi besifunda ngaphakathi nangaphandle kweFrance.
Ukusinda kwengubo yase-Alsatia kubonisa izinga izingubo zesifunda ezisebenza ngalo njengekhodi yezenhlalo: Lokho esikugqokayo kukhuluma lukhulu.Futhi endabeni yase-Alsatian, kwenziwa ngokusobala kangangokuthi, ngokubheka nje, umuntu wayengaqagela imvelaphi nesimo somuntu siqu sowesifazane owayeyigqokile.
Imvunulo yendabuko yase-Arles: ubuhle, ubucwebe kanye nophawu

Eningizimu yeFrance, Isudi ka-Arles Ingubo yase-Arlesian—noma ingubo yokugqoka izingubo zokugqoka—ihlukaniswa ngokucwebezela kwayo kanye nokubaluleka okukhulu kwezesekeli zayo, ikakhulukazi ubucwebe. Ihlotshaniswa kakhulu nabesifazane futhi isibe uphawu lweqiniso lweProvence, ngesithombe esibonakalayo esihlanganisa ubuhle nobuchwepheshe obungachazwanga.
Esinye sezici ezivelele kakhulu ze- izingubo zendabuko zase-Arles Yisethi yobucwebe obuhambisana naye, obugcwele incazelo. Lokhu akuzona izihlobiso ezingahleliwe, kodwa izingcezu ezilandisa ngokomfanekiso ubudlelwano bowesifazane nomndeni wakhe, ukholo lwakhe, kanye nomphakathi wakubo.
Phakathi kwalezi zingcezu, ama-brooch nama-pendants avelele, okwakuvame ukusetshenziswa njenge i-amulet kanye nophawu lokwethembaIsibonelo esiphawulekayo yi-pendant emise okwesihluthulelo: yayihunyushwa njengophawu lokwethemba owesifazane ayekubeka kumyeni wakhe njengomnakekeli wekhaya. Ukugqoka leso sihluthulelo kwakusho ukuvuma ngokusobala indima yakhe emndenini.
Esinye isici esibalulekile kwakuyizindandatho, okwakukholelwa ukuthi zinomsebenzi wokuvikela. Kwakucatshangwa ukuthi ziyasiza ukuvimbela izifo emantombazaneniNgakho-ke, ngale kokuba yinto yokuhlobisa, zazinomqondo ohlobene nokunakekelwa kanye nempilo. Le ngxube yezinkolelo-ze kanye namasiko yahlala ikhona izizukulwane ngezizukulwane.

Iqoqo laqedwa ngeribhoni yevelvet, ebekwe entanyeni noma esifubeni esingaphezulu, okuhlotshiswe ngaso njengesibonakaliso sesikhundla. Uma lalihlotshiswe kakhulu, isikhundla somphakathi sasiphakeme kakhulu kowesifazane owayeyigqokile. Futhi, izingubo kanye nemininingwane yazo kwakusebenza njengolimi oluthule kodwa olukhuluma kahle kakhulu.
Ukubaluleka kwale ngubo kwaqiniswa ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-20 ngenxa yalokho okubizwa ngokuthi Iphathi Yezingubo (ngesiFulentshi, i-Fête du Costume), eyasungulwa ngo-1903. Lo mkhosi wazalwa ngenhloso ethile: ukuvumela intsha, ikakhulukazi labo abangaphansi kweminyaka engu-15, ukuba babe nalezi zingubo futhi bazigqoke, ezazivame ukuba ngaphezu kwamandla abo ngenxa yezindleko zazo kanye nophawu lwazo.
Ngalo mkhosi, umphakathi wase-Arles wakhuthaza ukudluliselwa kwezingubo zawo zendabuko ezizukulwaneni ezintsha, ukuqinisekisa ukuthi Ingubo yase-Arlesian ngeke ikhunjulweKusukela ngaleso sikhathi, i-Fête du Costume ibilokhu iyisikhathi esibalulekile sokubona lezi zingubo ziqoqwe ndawonye, ​​​​kunemibukiso nemicimbi lapho ubuhle beProvençal buboniswa khona ngobuhle bayo bonke.
Imvunulo yendabuko yaseBreton: ukuhlobisa, izigqoko zekhanda kanye nokuhlukahluka

Uma kukhona isifunda esisodwa eFrance lapho izinhlobo ezahlukene zezingubo zifinyelela amazinga amangalisayo,... I-BrittanyKuleli kona lasenyakatho-ntshonalanga yeFrance, kuye kwafakwa izinhlobo ezahlukene zezingubo zendabuko ezingaba amashumi ayisithupha nesithupha, eziningi zazo zinezinhlobo zangaphakathi ezihlukaniswa ngamaBreton kuphela.
El Imvunulo yabesifazane bendabuko baseBreton Ivelele ngokufekethiswa kwayo okucebile kanye nezigqoko zayo ezimhlophe ezenziwe ngentambo. Lezi zigqoko, ezihluka kakhulu ngesimo nangokuphakama kuye ngendawo, zazinomsebenzi osebenzayo nowophawu: ngakolunye uhlangothi, zazisebenza ukuqoqa nokufihla izinwele, kanti ngakolunye uhlangothi, zazibonakala sengathi ziyingxenye yomphakathi othize ngaphakathi kwesifunda.
Ukuthunga okwakuhlobisa iziketi nama-aproni eBrittany kwakunesici esithakazelisayo kakhulu: kwakwenziwa ngokwesiko ngabesilisa. Lo mkhuba uhlukana nomqondo owawukhona wokuthi ukuthunga nokuthunga kuyimisebenzi yabesifazane, futhi ubonisa ukuthi ku Imisebenzi yezandla yendwangu yaseBreton Ukubamba iqhaza kwabesilisa kwakubalulekile ekulondolozweni kwemiklamo nemidwebo yendabuko.
Izingubo zamadoda eBrittany nazo zinezici eziphawulekayo. Umbala oluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka uvelele kumavesti nakumajakethi, okwenza umehluko omkhulu nezingubo zabesilisa. ibhulukwe elimhlophe elikhululekileezifakwe emabhuthini amnyama. Ibhande legolide liqinisa ingubo futhi lenezela ukugqama, okuholela ekubukekeni okungabalulekile futhi okugcwele ubuntu.

Namuhla, iningi lalezi zingubo zaseBreton zigqokwa ezimweni zemikhosi. Zivame ukubonakala e- imibuthano, ama-parade kanye nemikhosi yabantu okwenzeka unyaka wonke ezindaweni ezahlukene. Ngenxa yalezi zikhathi, abantu bendawo—kanye nezivakashi—bangaqhubeka nokwazisa enye yezindlela zokugqoka ezicebile kakhulu neziyinkimbinkimbi kakhulu eFrance.
Ukwehlukahluka okukhulu kwangaphakathi kwezingubo zaseBreton kwenza lesi sifunda sibe yipharadesi langempela kulabo abafunda umlando wezingubo. Uhlobo ngalunye lwendawo lunikeza imibala ehlukahlukene, ukuma, kanye nokuhlobisa, ukuze konke izingubo zesifunda saseBrittany Isebenza njengemephu yamasiko enemininingwane necacile yobuwena baseBreton.
Ukubheka izingubo zika-Alsace, u-Arles, noBrittany namuhla—nokuziqhathanisa nezinye izingubo ezifana nezeSierra de Francia—kusenza siqonde kangcono ukuthi izingubo bezilokhu zilulimi oluthule kanjani phakathi namakhulu eminyaka. ubuwena, inkumbulo kanye nokuba yingxenye.
Isifunda ngasinye sithunge ingxenye yomlando waso ezindwangu zaso, futhi ukulondoloza lezi zingubo, kanye nemibhalo ezimelelayo, kuyindlela ebambekayo yokugcina leyo ndaba ehlangene iphila.
